LYNN (CBS) – Antique Table in Lynn is an Italian trattoria tucked into a truly original space resembling an old farmhouse in the umbrian countryside.
The lowlit interior is a picturesque vision of exposed beams and stonework, vintage photographs in antique frames, and tree branches climbing the wall.
The appealing menu of home-style Italian fare is short and sweet, opting for quality over quantity. First, a “grilled margherita pizza” was dripping with gooey fresh mozzarella and tomatoes, but the undercrisped crust was devoid of smoky grill flavor.
Housemade “meatballs,” served atop tangy marinara, tasted great, but the texture was a little dense.
Next, ricotta gnocchi was the dish of the night, pillowy light and baked in a bright, cheesy tomato sauce perfumed with garlic and basil.
Chicken valdostana was a delightful mix of prosciutto, spinach, and fontina, but the potato and peppers were seriously undercooked.
Housemade “cannoli” sported decent, flaky shells piped with sweet, creamy filling. While the “chocolate mousse cake” wasn’t bad, the chocolate flavor lacked depth or complexity.
Portions are generous, and every meal starts with delicious focaccia and pesto-infused oil. The waiter was a magician, disappearing for long stretches during the awkwardly paced meal.
The well-scrubbed space passed the purple glove test with flying colors. Entrees in the teens are as old-school as the retro décor.
Antique table is on Essex Street in Lynn, with on-site parking. Phantom gives Antique Table a total of 79, Phantom approved.
For more food and fun, watch The Phantom Gourmet Sundays at 10:30 a.m. and 11 a.m. on TV38.