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Phantom Gourmet: Branch Line In Watertown

WATERTOWN - It's one of the hottest new restaurants in greater Boston, and it has turned the humble chicken into a must have meal. Opened just a few months ago, Branch Line is the restaurant everyone is talking about. It's located at Watertown's Arsenal on the Charles, a former army arsenal dating back to the Civil War.

Managing Partner Andrew Holden was raised right around the corner, and he's amazed by the transformation of the place.

"Growing up four streets away, this was all government grounds. You couldn't enter," he said. "To be here, in this historic space is really special. You can almost feel the history of the space while you're sitting in it."

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Branch Line's dining room retains much of the building's original elements, with a 40 foot ceiling and plenty of exposed brick and steel. These days, there's also a large open kitchen, helmed by Chef Stephen Oxaal. The menu focuses on American classics, freshened up with plenty of Mediterranean influences. Most of what you'll eat comes from the wood fired grill or the imported French Rotisserie.

"It's like the Cadillac of rotisseries," the chef said. "It's from France, and if you want to get just a bad to the bone rotisserie, you have to have it."

They roast just about everything they can in the rotisserie. First and foremost is the chicken.

Branch Line, Phantom Gourmet
Rotisserie Chicken at Branch Line (Image: Phantom Gourmet)

"We use Green Circle chickens from Lancaster, Pennsylvania. We season the inside with salt and pepper, and then we season the outside with more salt, more pepper, paprika, coriander, and sumac. The spices really soak up into the meat, so that way when it's cooked and served to you as the guest, you're gonna cut into this chicken, and have this just vibrant, bright flavored chicken. We offer it whole, or half," Chef Stephen explained.

With extra crispy skin, and juicy, flavor packed meat, these chickens taste even better than they look, so it's no surprise that almost everybody orders one.

"They're really, really beautiful, really golden, and once you tend to see one at a table near you, it's a little contagious," Andrew said.

"Everybody has kind of a moment when they see it come out, because a whole chicken comes out. It's very communal, and it kind of brings everybody together, and that's a good thing at the dinner table," Stephen added.

Just in case you want even more chickeny goodness, you can also order a cup of rotisserie drippings, with crusty bread for dipping.

"We put chicken stock into the bottom of our rotisserie, and then all the chickens with all those spices on it drip down onto it," Stephen described. "You get a little bit of the chicken fat, a little bit of all those spices, and then we mix it with some roasted garlic. You get just this explosion, and a little cup of chicken drippings is just packed with flavor."

Of course there is plenty more on the menu at Branch Line. Starters include Salted Avocado with ricotta salata, an outrageously delicious Sugar Snap Pea Salad, and decadent Grilled Oysters.

Branch Line, Phantom Gourmet
Grilled Oysters at Branch Line (Image: Phantom Gourmet)

"We shuck the oysters, put them onto the wood burning grill, and then we top them with a harissa butter, made here. And once they get cooked, the butter is melty and bubbly, and then we'll put them onto a plate with some fresh chopped celery and some fennel fronds," described the chef.

For entrees, there's hearty Baked Ziti with cheese, béchamel, and pork sausage; and a Porchetta topped with pickled vegetables. But the most impressive dish might actually be the Rotisserie Cauliflower, something even meat eaters will find mouthwatering.

"We wanted to have something that you just crave," Chef Stephen explained. "So what we do is we blanch cauliflower quickly, and then we assemble it onto a skewer, and then we'll baste it with clarified butter, salt and pepper, and we'll cook it on the rotisserie until it gets good and crispy on the outside. We serve it on butternut squash puree, smoked mushrooms, and then a pine nut gremolata on top. When you eat this you're gonna be wishing that you did it sooner and. It is very satisfying. You get a whole head of cauliflower. It's a full meal in itself."

Branch Line, Phantom Gourmet
Rotisserie Cauliflower at Branch Line (Image: Phantom Gourmet)

Rounding out Branch Line's menu are sides like Fried Potatoes, and spicy chili and garlic Broccolini, and at lunch the rotisserie Pork Shoulder Sandwich is a must order.

"The outside gets a little crispy, fat's dripping off. We'll shave it thin on a deli slicer, and then we'll put it onto a ciabatta bread that's been toasted on the grill," Stephen explained. "So it's smoky, it's toasted, black pepper mayonnaise, rotisserie shaved pork shoulder, melted Kefalotyri cheese, marinated cucumbers."

Branch Line, Phantom Gourmet
Pork Shoulder sandwich at Branch Line (Image: Phantom Gourmet)

The passion for great food and service is seen in every aspect of a meal at Branch Line, and the people who make it all happen just hope customers come in and experience it.

"It's a place with heart, and a place where you can feel the sincerity of the staff, and the quality of the food, and the value," said Andrew. "It's really special."

You can find Branch Line at 321 Arsenal Street in Watertown and online at branchlinearsenal.com.

Watch Phantom Gourmet on Saturdays and Sundays at 10:30 and 11 a.m. on myTV38.

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