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Phantom Gourmet: Capo In South Boston

SOUTH BOSTON - South Boston just got a whole lot tastier, because at Capo restaurant on West Broadway, they've put all of the flavor of Italy and all of fun of Southie under one roof.

Restaurateur Eric Aulenback has been lighting this block on fire lately, with restaurants like Lincoln Tavern and Loco. In his latest addition to the neighborhood, he's taken a massive lot and turned it into a bustling buildout featuring high wooden ceilings, exposed brick and low lighting.

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"The front room's more of an Italian tavern. And in the back, it looks like you're in the Italian Alps, in someone's house. It's all rustic, made out of barn board. Very homey, 18-foot wood-burning fireplace, then an open rustic kitchen where you can watch all the action take place."

In that kitchen you'll find chef Tony Susi and his team doing it all right out in the open, where customers can see it all.

"Our pasta production, our wood-fired grill, our wood-fired pizza oven, the salumi cutting, it's all right there for you to watch," Eric said. "So it's a show, number one. Number two, the wood-fired part creates a great aroma when you walk in."

The smell is truly spectacular according to Bar Manager, Kevin Mabry.

"It's a really perfumed room. You walk in and you are transcended, and you know that there's a good meal in your future."

Every meal at Capo starts with a bowl of complimentary bread, baked on-site and cut to order with olive oil for dipping. From there, you can feast on huge boards of Antipasti; crunchy Bruschetta topped with herb ricotta and speck; thin crust, wood-fired pizzas, sliced into six pieces so they're easy to share; and ultra-crispy Short Rib Arrancini.

"You get the outside that's kind of crusted and fried, then the inside is really creamy. At the end of it they're so decadent and flavorful," Kevin described. "They're definitely a show-stopper on the menu for us."

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Meatballs at Capo (Image: Phantom Gourmet)

The true test of any Italian restaurant is the Meatball, and Capo's recipe is the stuff dreams are made of.

"People tell us that they quite honestly dream about our meatballs," said Keving. "The thing I love most about the meatballs is just how succulent they are. They are just super moist when you bite into them. That sauce, that compliments it with that nice crusty bread, makes for the perfect bite."

Since the pasta is all made on site, it's always outstanding. There's Mafalde served with sausage and sweet peppers in a broccoli rabe pesto, and hearty Bolognese over fresh rigatoni, a favorite of Kevin's.

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Rigatoni Bolognese at Capo (Image: Phantom Gourmet)

"Our Rigatoni Bolognese is hands-down my favorite dish. The rigatoni is cooked in-house, has this beautiful al dente texture to it. The rigatoni ridges on the pasta help that sauce stick to it. It makes for this really creamy, awesome, multi-textured Rigatoni Bolognese."

In true Italian cooking, simplicity is always best, and that's just what the Spaghetti Pomodoro brings to the table.

"Just spaghetti with red sauce. It's simple. It's amazing. It's greater than the sum of its parts. It's fresh ingredients, cooked down into a beautiful red sauce with a nice homemade pasta. Quite honestly, what Italian food is all about," Kevin said.

The grill is put into overdrive for the entree section of Capo's menu. There's the perfectly grilled Ribeye Manzo, and a Double Cut Pork Chop that's as much of a head turner as it is a palate pleaser.

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Double Cut Pork Chop at Capo (Image: Phantom Gourmet)

"We essentially grill it to order on our wood-fired grill. That gives it this really good wood-fired flavor. It's definitely hedonistic in the sense that it is larger portions," Kevin explained. "Once it hits the table, it's kind of a show stopper."

When you're at Capo, it's all about the Parms, and nothing hits the spot quite like the eggplant.

"It's thicker-cut. It's breaded. Then what we do is bake it off in our wood-fired oven. That makes it super-crispy, topped with a little bit of red sauce and mozzarella," described Kevin. "Once you dig in to the Eggplant Parm, you definitely get the crunchiness from the eggplant, then it's kind of cheesy, gooey for lack of a better word."

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Eggplant Parm at Capo (Image: Phantom Gourmet)

Getting a dessert at Capo is a must, whether you try the moist Olive Oil Cake or the decadent Tiramisu. But the Biscotti is a must try, because it's unlike any you've ever had.

"It's a different style biscotti. It's not that harder, crumbling style biscotti. It's soft-cooked, so it's actually softer in the middle. That, with the almond quality to it and the cherry quality to it, makes for a nice, sweet, after dinner dessert," Kevin said.

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Biscotti at Capo (Image: Phantom Gourmet)

No matter what you've had for your appetizer, entree or dessert, you can always be sure it will come with a side of fun.

"If you don't have fun here, you don't have a pulse as far as I'm concerned," Kevin said. "We have a great time here. It's definitely a place where you can come after work and relax. We're having fun behind the bar. We're having fun at the tables. We're having fun in the kitchen. We hope that transcends to the guests as well."

You can find Capo at 443 West Broadway in South Boston, and online at caposouthboston.com.

Watch Phantom Gourmet on Saturdays and Sundays at 10:30 and 11 a.m. on myTV38.

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