Phantom Gourmet: Flank In Waltham
WALTHAM - This is a completely different kind of steakhouse experience: where you're encouraged to have fun, wear an apron, and eat with your hands. This may seem like a crazy new concept, but at the sizzling new Flank restaurant in Waltham, a 100 year old tradition known as the "beefsteak dinner" is being reborn.
"The beefsteak dinner existed in New York City around the turn of the century, and it was predominantly used as a political fundraiser," explained managing partner, and radio morning man, Greg Hill. "They'd deliver that food without any utensils and everybody would get messy."
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"The theme of their club was they would eat with their fingers. No utensils were allowed, hence the aprons," explained Executive Chef Jordan Mackey. "So they would wipe their hands on the aprons, and they would bond, and they would meet in like the basements of libraries and public buildings. And they would drink beer, and eat steak with their fingers, and dip it into butter."
Back in the day, beefsteak dinners were for men only. Today, women are invited as well, of course. Truth be told, a lot of customers will ask for and receive utensils. But according to Greg, that means you'd be missing out on half the fun.
"I eat with my hands all the time whether it's encouraged or not, especially here in New England where we're used to lobster bakes or whatever. Enjoy with your hands!"
It's hard not to enjoy Chef Jordan's cuisine, no matter how you eat it. Baked stuffed clams casino, Swedish meatballs, deviled eggs, hand-cut pappardelle pasta, fully-loaded baked potatoes, steakhouse style mac and cheese. For lunch, you can get a playfully presented double bacon cheeseburger with herbed truffle fries. For dinner, check out the Longbone Tomahawk for two.
"They actually call it the Tomahawk because the bone on the ribeye is kept really long, with a giant 40 ounce steak on the end of it," Jordan explained. "It takes 40 minutes to cook. It's something worth waiting for and it's dry-aged to perfection. It's probably the most opulent steak that you could put your money on."
If you are ready to go all in for a special occasion, order the four-course beefsteak banquet style feast known as the Butter and Egg Man.
"The Butter and Egg Man is our highest tier, wrought with opulence," Chef Jordan promised, as he proceeded to list all that luxurious food.
"The Butter and Egg Man is served in four family style courses. The first one is iced seafood: local oysters, cold poached shrimp, cold poached lobster, cold water king crab.
"Then when you're done gorging on that, we bring out the cold salad course: little tiny wedge salads, small individual Caesars, little crab Louie salads.
"And then obviously comes the beefsteak. You get four cuts. You get filet mignon; you get New York strip; you get ribeye; and of course at Flank, you have to have flank steak. Everyone has to have flank steak."
"Get your hands right in here. Grab a big hunk of beef, dip it in the butter, and enjoy it," Greg demonstrated, wiping his hands on his apron. "The best part about it is, you're already wearing a napkin."
You almost feel guilty not using proper manners, because Flank is absolutely beautiful. There are white tablecloths and warm colors, lots of glass, an eye-catching bar with a big Waltham clock. There's also an enormous mural depicting a classic beefsteak dinner, which was designed by a local artist primarily using spray paint. But the most impressive artwork is actually the Baked Alaska that's served for dessert.
"One of those very old desserts that is ice cream that is enrobed with meringue so you can set it on fire without melting it," Chef Jordan explained. "Our pastry chef Lanette really thought it was cool to draw on the inspiration, because of the decor with the spray paint. So we got food grade spray paint from one of our supply companies so she can really decorate. The plate, everything really comes together: the walls, the plate, the food."
From the sweets to the steaks, Flank is certainly a different kind of restaurant. And that's probably a good thing.
"I go to some steakhouses and they kind of have a stick up their butt, and I think we remove that here," Greg said. "I think you have the chance to dine with a group of friends, to have fun, to be loud, enjoy all kinds of different cuts of beef, and to kind of let loose a little bit."
You can find Flank at 74 Tower Road in Waltham, and online at flankwaltham.com.
Watch Phantom Gourmet on Saturdays and Sundays at 10:30 and 11 a.m. on myTV38.
