Phantom Gourmet: Loco Tacqueria & Oyster Bar In South Boston
SOUTH BOSTON - When Mike Shaw set out to create the perfect restaurant for his South Boston neighborhood, he decided to dream big.
"When me and my buddies want to go out and eat, the first two things that come up are, 'Let's go grab some tacos,' or 'Let's go get oysters.' And we figured, 'What the hell? Let's try it together.'"
And what better name for this crazy combination than Loco Taqueria & Oyster Bar. This Southie spot may serve some deliciously different flavors, but the decor is relaxed and familiar. With big windows, exposed beams and a massive bar strung up with lights, it feels more like a back porch than a restaurant.
"Totally laid back," Mike described. "We want to slow the pace down. Boston's a really fast city, and when you walk in here, we don't care where it takes you, as long as it takes you away from here."
Though the atmosphere may be comfortable, Mike and Executive Chef Matt Drummond hope the food at Loco will get your heart pumping.
Of course, the menu offers plenty of tacos, like Baja style fish tacos served with charred jalapeno and pineapple aioli, pickled cabbage and avocado.
"We use a really, really kickass white fish," Mike said. "A really, really well-battered, fried fish that just falls apart. Every bite that you take, it feels so insanely fresh. So when you're done eating a fish taco, you feel good."
You can also order the root beer braised chicken tacos with spicy sweet potato puree, citrus marinated Asian pear, pickled fresno peppers and crispy tortilla chips; or the cola pork carnitas tacos topped with griddled onions, orange and pineapple salsa and pickled serrano peppers.
"It is so badass. It's really, really, really tasty stuff. It does have a little bit of a kick to it. If somebody likes spicy food, definitely, definitely lean in that direction," Mike urged.
Nothing pairs with a spicy carnitas taco quite like Loco's frozen chocolate taco packed with ice cream and dipped in smoked almonds.
"It's a home run," declared Mike. "We're a little out of the box here, and it's definitely the right dessert for Loco."
The fish in the tacos may be fried to a golden brown and the meat cooked to perfection, but you can't forget about those dishes served straight from the raw bar. One of the most popular choices is the tuna crudo tostada stacked with avocado, lime crema and crunchy radish.
Chef Matt would encourage you to be bold and try the bright tuna ceviche with blackberries, pomegranate seeds, cucumber, and pickled pineapple; or the sea bass ceviche with green mango and Thai basil ice.
"That would probably be my favorite ceviche," he said. "Thai basil ice is really neat, like you're walking through the park one day getting a cup of shaved ice, but it's a funky flavor you've probably never ever had."
Still wondering what tacos and oysters have in common? The answer is actually quite simple, they're both perfect for sharing.
Everybody can dig into dishes like the salsa trio featuring smoked corn salsa, a classic Pico de Gallo and a spicy grilled zucchini and habanero; charcoal grilled street corn doused with chili mojo sauce and cotija cheese; and there's not one, but four different types of guacamole: from classic chunky, to creamy whipped, with sweet pineapple or smoked salmon.
There are also chicken wings basted in a sweet and spicy sauce topped with chopped peanuts and cheese, and an incredible queso dip studded with crumbled chorizo.
"Queso dip was kind of one of those things that you gotta have it," Mike said. "I think I ate all the cheese in Boston in the months leading up to opening this place."
For those who aren't interested in sharing, the carnitas arepas are a meal you can keep all to yourself.
"It's basically a Mexican Johnny cake, sitting on top of a heap of carnitas with some roasted corn," explained Mike. "It's unbelievable."
Perhaps the most loco aspect of all, though, is that this taqueria and oyster bar also serves brunch on the weekends.
"It's a day drinking spot. It's a really cool joint to hang out in during the day. A lot of reggae music. It's a really cool, relaxed vibe."
So, along with a nice morning margarita, you can load up on Huevos Benedictos served over Portuguese sweet muffins and tasso ham; breakfast bread pudding made with thick Texas toast, strawberry jam, dulce de leche and melted farmer's cheese; or chilaquiles loaded with tortilla chips, carnitas and two eggs served sunny side up.
"It's got a nice flavor balance between our sweet pork carnitas and then the spiced tortilla chips. And everything's better with an egg on top, so we throw two eggs. Why not?" said Chef Matt.
Trying to find a cool new restaurant can certainly give you a headache, so thankfully Loco is the surefire cure. Mike knows that's what keeps people coming back for more.
"When people leave, they look at each other, and they say, 'a little crazy is a good thing.'"
You can find Loco Taqueria & Oyster Bar at 412 West Broadway in South Boston, or at locosouthboston.com.
Watch Phantom Gourmet on Saturdays and Sundays at 10:30 and 11 a.m. on myTV38.
